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In praise of simplicity
In the technological bulimia that marks digital camera production one risks to
miss the whole point of photography, regarding both techniques and contents.
After all, taking pictures boils down to very few fundamentals: a) a lens with
a diaphragm, b) a shutter for exposure timing, c) a sensor receiving an image
with features depending on a and b, d) a flash or a lamp, when required, or
anything thet can give light when there isn’t enough. Yes, light, because it’s light that produces pictures. Light, and the photographer’s eye, pushing a button is not enough. There is a thing called viewfinder, or
display, allowing us to frame the subject and to choose how to represent it,
because we should not forget that any image is a subjective representation of
reality, filtered by a technical medium.
Underwater photography
The above premise is even more valid for u/w photography, where the limits
imposed by technology, but mostly by external conditions, further reduce the
photographer’s field of action and the adherence of the representation to the reality we see
with our eyes. But there are differences to u/w photo. Being underwater is not
enough: there is little difference between the everyday souvenir pictures we
all take on land, and the ones we take
with a housing during a splash, or the ones of our posing diving friends,
possibly without the mouthpieces for better pose!! To me u/w photography is
something more complex than that, like a way to represent the submerged
landscape, and the organisms that concur to creating it, as adherently as
possible to what yoy see through the mask, and capable of rendering the
feelings you experience underwater, the extraordinary biodiversity, the
amazement produced by shapes and colors so different from land.
When technology can’t make it
Ok, for all this we need technology, but what really counts is the photographer’s ability tu use the technology to achieve what he wants. What’s needed, excuse me for insisting, is in the first place the possibility of
shooting blue pictures (from 7-8 meters down) allowing to read the shadows
without a white (overexposed) water surface; and if you can shoot good blue
pictures you’re not too far from getting good pictures mixing ambient and artificial
lighting.
Well, with point-and-shoot compacts this is a desperate undertaking, and no
SCENE mode can solve the problem. The reason is simple: the brightness
difference between the surface in front of the camera and the background
(especially if it is dark rocks) is so high that the automatic exposure cannot
average the two values and tends to expose either for highlights or for
shadows. The result is images with either a visible background and overexposed foreground, or vice
versa. The problem gets even more awkward when you try to use the strobe,
because, as the subject is now dark, the camera automatically exposes for
shadows and therefore it
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chooses a maximum aperture, or very long exposure times, or exceedingly high
ISO. Therefore you get blurred or very noisy pictures. In conclusion, is it
possible to do u/w photography with a point-and-shoot compact? The answer is: it can happen, meaning that some pictures are ok, some are not, unpredictably,
some kind of unacceptable lottery. It’s a typical situation where an assistive technology doesn’t work, the machine is not any better than we are.
Using technology
It’s not by chance, then, that all serious photographers, even when they use
super-sophisticated cameras like the
last generation reflexes, underwater they use manual controls for speed, aperture, and ISO. They choose, they won’t let the machine take over, and they choose not only what to shoot, but also how to shoot. Because there is nothing simpler than diving, finding an interesting
subject, evaluating ambient light (using the camera technology, i.e., the light
meter), setting ISO, shutter time, and aperture, and then shooting. And if
conditions stay the same, you do this once and for all, and then it becomes
like working in full automation. It’s so simple that on a Mediterranean seabed, at about 20 meters, you can easily
foresee that 100 ISO 1/60 f8 will do the job, whereas on a coral reef 1/60 f11
will be ok as well. Of course, if you don’t know, or don’t understand the meaning of 100 ISO 1/60 f8, you better spend a few minutes of
your time to find out. But don’t make the mistake of believing that this is difficult. It is simple,
differently from cameras, often too complicated, trying do do simple things
with little success.
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